Awakening to menswear, fashion goes deep into new archetype
Big buzz arises regarding consumption and the fashion market is flooded with 2020 homme seasons, moving away from the modern man
_ It’s no news that men are consuming more fashion.
_ Since 2012, researches show us that the market is growing with the young consumer, in particular, the generation we call Y. In 2019, it is a booming market and, believe me, this spring / summer 2020 season, and even earlier in the Cruise 2020 season, brands have eventually focused on a true exploration and expansion of the male universe.
_ From megalomaniac sets to brands serving REAL fashion on strong explorations in design and persona, more than 100 brands have showed collections this season, and this shows a concern beyond just reaching an audience, a race for brands to make the essence of their line clearer to consumers.
_ Now we run into the great motivation of this text: by composing several personas that represent the contemporary man, specifically the millenial, the brands end up resizing the current man’s wardrobe — and what a resize! — they also explore a new meaning for what would be a new stereotype, or rather the fall of masculine stereotypes for the construction of new archetypes, mostly deconstructed and fearless that characterize the ambition of postmodern society to dissolve old patterns.
_ A good example of what I’m talking about is Dior Homme signed by Kim Jones. Since his debut in the French house’s spring / summer 19th collection, the English designer has been working on the image of a sensitive, modern, light and fluid man who goes against the man Van Assche designed while running the house.
_ The above comparison is one of many that can be done from one fashion show to another, of the same season, in the same house, but talking to a different man. Here it is not fitting to judge which one has a better or worse direction, both designers are exceptional, but it is worth observing how the reading of the male consumer is changing, because there is a market need to identify the customer with what is exposed.
_ In addition to this change I used to illustrate what I am talking about, there are still the marks that lead this exploration to the fullest, setting up a new archetype of contemporary man, which for us who love fashion offers discussion galore: where wardrobes are migrating to, whether male and female wardrobes are merging into a single one, or whether we are proud of this transition, witnessing a breakthrough in dress understanding.
_ From these new summer 20 personas, some are worth checking out: Jacquemus, Dries Van Noten, JW Anderson, Ann Demeulemeester, Ludovic of Saint Sernin, Hermes, Henrik Vibskov, Thom Bronwe, Louis Vuitton, Raf Simons, Valentino and several others. Below you can see images of some of the shows in the gallery.
_ Above, is a small sample of the new dialogues that are being established between the wardrobe and male universe, from colors, through modeling and culminating in appropriations of the female wardrobe. In styling, brands tend to increasingly embrace diversity and move towards a fluid composition of appearance that dialogue even with the allegorical as is the case with Vetements at McDonald’s this season.
_ To finish this post, we will comment a little about Olivier Rousteing’s work at Balmain Homme, also summer 2020. In a collection with modest (lol) HUNDRED FOUR looks, the designer goes deep into the composition with jeans, satin, very shine (as always… Balmain right?), deconstructed tailoring and pastel shades, to bring to life an eye-catching “cool kid futuristic glam” collection, but with a lightness that comes throughout the season enunciated by the lighter shades in a poorly saturated palette for Balmain. In the end comes the black and classic nightclub of Rousteing for Balmain.
_ What is worth mentioning in the collection for this post: in this collection with mixed casting (it’s a fever in recent shows) in the homme season, the looks do not claim to demand a genre. In this sense, styling with a minimal make-up and a pure geometric sun visor also sublimate the mental demand for fashion image translation for a male / female. A work that has been refined at Balmain since Olivier’s entry into the creative direction of the brand, and this context works very well, tracing a new type that is based on clothing and behavior and tends to abandon the genre, is it not incredible? Oh, fashion!. #loving #letskeepmoving
And you? What did you think of the season? Comment down here, and and remember you can always see more content on dizpormp.com / ;)