Bad omen: fashion hits when advertising bunkers, isolation and the apocalyptic world

In a difficult start of 2020 for the whole globe, the pandemic turns into reality a scenario predicted by some shows of recent seasons.

_ Nobody would say that we would return from vacation in this scenario. The year has just begun and we are experiencing a pandemic caused by the new coronavirus that appeared in China. So far, what is known is that social isolation helps to reduce the contagion curve so that we do not overload our health networks, so PLEASE #STAYHOME on all social networks.

_ Mandatory information successfully transmitted, we go to the heart of today’s text. In the text: “And when the end of the world is a trend” or in Vanessa Friedman’s review “It’s the End of the World as We Know It” about the Balenciaga show for the New York Times, we realized that both texts discuss fashion shows about apocalyptic or post-apocalyptic scenario.

_ It turns out that at least in the last three years, and even before that, some exponents of fashion have been calling attention to issues that brought a more political tone to the catwalks, concerned with reflecting not only behavior, but the impacts related to behavior. Contextualizing, the speeches became more dense, communication increasingly concerned with being relevant, along with the need to increasingly spectacularize the shows and the images that come from them at maximum power.

_ Not by chance, aesthetics also flowed into opposites. What we seeing the big picture as whole is that there are brands that are solar, that cling to the dream and the lightness of calmer, quieter days, translated into florals, very light fabrics, external shows, that play with luxury and the opulence of what it comes from the universe of summer and spring, and they risk themselves in the opulence of times of freedom, like the wardrobe of the 70s and 80s, while other brands follow the opposite of that.

_ It is in this opposite that we will stop. Fashion sensed the arrival of the wave of conservatism that we are experiencing globally and gave its answer with the most diverse concepts about freedom of style, of behavior, of standards, which were gradually adopted and claimed. Still, with the passage of what was athleisure, began to be designed for protection, a true bark clothing that vehemently uses utilitarianism to impose itself and define the individual’s untouchable space.

_ We saw this movement emerge very strongly when Gucci began to mix its seventies wardrobe with a post-punk aesthetic that also appears in Prada that hides and protects the individual, which will also be celebrated in Vêtements and Balenciaga over the figure of ordinary worker exploiting the maximum of the utility, while Maison Margiela will emerge from a human being who lives in a tech bubble (above) — necessarily bourgeois — who explores volumes of clothes as one who explores and expands his own individualism, or phobia of living together.

_ With this happening, this extract of fashion, which will think a tendency of isolation, of the individual’s bunker, who has a need to be more and more comfortable, less dressed up but more protected, deals with the reality of the behavior that we suddenly need to adopt during this pandemic. What I mean? That fashion somehow predicted the pandemic?

_ No. She did not foresee. No one could or would like to predict. But what she actually predicted was the reality of isolation, of growing contact that is not human, but simulations that flirt with human studies that speak of modernity and postmodernity. The fashion of the less floral and less optimistic extract, when decanting what was this post punk, and evolving into the trend of this season which is the home office, where we have real giant comforters as elements of style of utmost importance, offers us a vision about how the behavior has changed and will change even more.

_ In this last troubled and canceled fashion season, we had what was an ode of Balenciaga to what would be the end of the world thanks to the climatic changes that both Vivienne Westwood (who hasn’t done a good performance this season) has been fighting and alerting for so long. With real-life characters fetishized in a world that is literally sinking. Also from the same brand, practically the leader of this current aesthetic and storytelling trend, we have the coldest advertising and analogous to the times we are living in available at the brand’s S/S 2020.

_ Below, video of the show and advertising for you to check.

_ Still this season, some shows are also marked by the distance or the exercise of the voyeur, as in Louis Vuitton, in Gucci, both female and male, in Chanel, who had not done a scenario that was not realistic in Yeezy in a long time (albeit a little behind in the trend), Richert Beil, who is cold, also Paco Rabanne, who builds real armor for the moment.

_ In this home office trend, there is an effort and a predominance of him in the execution of different and luxurious tops (the parts that will appear in the video-conferences), which mix with jewelry, with bijouxs, with excess of technique, of volume, everything for to achieve a more strained effect — sometimes not so much with the classic sweatshirts, pajamas + underwear — in the part that will appear. Will the rufus come back? KKK, jokes aside, the bottons weaken a little, predominating classic tailoring, and variations with little effort from it.

_ In other words, even fashion is adapting to the new times of isolation that were already predicted as the culmination of our digital culture and that has been intensified by the explosion of this pandemic in the world. And what is fashion doing about? Well, several actions by the fashion industry regarding the pandemic to help the population and health systems are being taken.

_ Update 04.24.2020: At this time of the pandemic, several are the global investors from all areas: fashion, music, arts, etc, and several other sectors that can raise awareness of a cause and generate a very popular list here. With regard to the fashion sector, international actions have already surpassed US$ 50 million and several national players are also involved in the production of PPE and textile supplies for the health front line.

_ Unfortunately it is not a period of good tone to returns to action, nor with the best post for early 2020, but an interesting post to understand more about how fashion is literally a kind of reality photography, and how through your study, and the study of other areas, we can predict behaviors and simulate future scenarios. And what can we do to help? That’s right, STAY AT HOME.

_ Enjoy and comment below what you think, what headlines you want to read here, let’s discuss fashion! Until the next text. You always can see more content in my website, dizpormp.com :D

Designer and researcher in graphic design and fashion. Writes reviews and reflections on aspects related to fashion, behavior and artifact production.